Living La Vida Loca In Little Havana
Calle Ocho park in Little Havana. One of the many locations residents gather to play dominos. Credit: Infrogmation
Experience vibrant Cuban culture right in Miami...
Cuba may still be off limits to most American travelers but you can still experience the rich culture, fantastic foods and energetic rhythms of Cuba in Miami's Little Havana.
With a population of 50,000, Little Havana has the highest residential density in the city. Most of the residents are either refugees from Cuba who came here after Fidel Castro came to power or are descendants of Cubans and Cuban Americans.
Stepping into Little Havana is like stepping into Havana itself. The Hispanic culture is not only evident, but celebrated at every turn. Old men still battle one another in heated games of dominoes with the characteristic hard slap of a well-played "bone." The aroma of Cuban coffee is ever present and the quaint galleries, delicious cafes and colorful storefronts add energy and excitement to this tight knit community.
If you're not Cuban, don't worry. The people here are extremely welcoming and are proud to share their culture with you.
More than 150,000 visitors come to Little Havana annually, either by tour bus or car. Special events such as Viernes Culturales draw thousands more. One of the great things about Little Havana is that it's not a tourist trap, so the streets aren't filled with t-shirt stands and souvenir shops. Little Havana is a real neighborhood, where residents live, work and play.
The official boundaries of Little Havana are the Miami River to the north, SW 11th Street to the south, SW 22nd Ave. on the west and I-95 to the east. The cultural center of the community is Maximo Gomez Park, otherwise known as Domino Park where young and old gather to play fierce games of dominoes. As you walk through the park don't be too surprised to hear heated arguments in Spanish as men argue about the game at hand as well as world politics.
As you walk the streets of Little Havana take the time to enjoy the colorful murals, the monuments to heroes past and present and the great care residents take to preserve their heritage and share it with future generations.
Some of the highlights of any walking tour is Calle Ocho (SW 8th St.), Cuban Memorial Boulevard, Tower Theater, Jose Marti Park, St. John Bosco Catholic Church and Municipio de Santiago de Cuba. Of special note is the Walkway of Stars, which celebrates the contributions of famous artists and personalities, including Gloria Estefan, Celia Cruz and Willy Chirino.
If you're lucky enough to be there on the last Friday of the month, be sure to attend Viernes Culturales, which takes place along SW 8th St. between 14th and 17th Avenues. Vierenes Culturales (Cultural Fridays) is a celebration of the arts and culture. It features artists and nonstop entertainment on the outdoor stages. The sidewalks and plazas are filled with artists and the 13 art galleries in the area are open throughout the event. There's plenty to eat at the participating restaurants and the historical Tower Theater hosts numerous educational programs and films during the festival. It is really a highpoint for the community and it is a great way to enjoy an authentic Cuban experience.
If you get hungry, try out the Cuban specialties in area restaurants, including arroz con pollo with frijoles negros, paella, authentic Cuban sandwiches and of course, Cuban coffee. End your meal with flan or three milk cake for dessert.
Though you can't legally buy Cuban cigars in the U.S., you can buy cigars made by Cubans in Little Havana. There are many cigar factories in the neighborhood, the most famous of them being El Credito Cigar Factory where you can watch cigar rollers through the large storefront windows. The business dates back three generations and counts Bill Clinton, Robert De Niro and Arnold Schwarzenegger among its loyal customers.
For a little history of how Little Havana came to be, head to the Bay of Pigs Museum on SW 9th St. It chronicles the attempted invasion of Cuba and the political outfall of its failure, causing thousands of Cubans to flee their homeland, eventually creating a community in exile in Little Havana.